Doctor Who - 12" Radio Control Dalek Thay

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The 5″ Radio Controlled Supreme Dalek is available now. It featured in Two episodes from series Four… 4 7 Aug 2008 12″ Supreme Dalek To enter voice activation mode (or to give the Dalek any voice commands at all) you need to get the Dalek's attention. This you do by simply saying: "Dalek". Once it's recognised the command it will say: "Yes".

Cut out a 3cm tall thin cardboard strip ( it can be done in 2 parts like the chest cover), cut out a small section to go around underneath the weapons panel, pipe some more grab adhesive around the bands and attach to the bottom part of the chest, and rub a little bit more over any joins.This fully functional radio controlled Dalek Ironside has full 360 degree movement control, a built in infrared combat system which allows you to use two Daleks… 76 8 Jul 2010 Character Infrared Battle Radio Controlled Dalek Using a craft knife of a drill, make 2 holes in the deodorant lid, 1 in the center, and another towards top center (as seen in the main photo). Pull the lens from the lens cover, feed through the center hole, glue the edges of the lens cover to the lid, wait for glue to set for a couple of hours. IMPORTANT. Waiting a couple of hours insures that glue fumes do not attach themselves to the lens itself, later obstructing the view. Then refit the lens (making sure the lens was the right way up before fixing in place, which I forgot to do at first, oops). What I then did was to glue a very small rubber gromit to the microphone hole, then gently pushed the mic in to place. Doctor Whoo oo, HEY, Doctor Who, Doctor Whoo oo, HEY, The T.A.R.D.I.S". Who remembers that little gem of a song (or not as the case may be ;-) from 1988 by The Timelords (AKA The KLF). Anyway that was NOT the inspiration I got for starting this project, but photos of homemade Daleks I have seen on the net, projects people have made on Instructables, especially the ones made by craftycounterpart and by Sci_Fi_Steve which are very cool, and of course Doctor Who's 50th anniversary certainly were. The 18" Voice Interactive Dalek has so many fantastic features that it's difficult to know where to start. And, like an excited child on Christmas morning, this reviewer couldn't wait to get his hands on the goods.

You can also use the Dalek to guard a location - say for example you want to know if someone approaches your bedroom door. Simply place the Dalek outside your door and activate it. Once it's ready to accept your voice command, you simply say: "Guard location". Then, when anyone comes near, it will warn them to leave the area otherwise they will be exterminated. They have a couple of seconds to comply before it cries: "Exterminate!" and makes a firing sound. And, should you want to sneak past it you simply have to say: "Voice command override." Final peace to do is the outer rim that fits to the bottom of the chest panel and runs under the weapons panel.To attach the head, apply some blobs of grab adhesive to the top of all 6 of the PVC foam supports and rest the head down on to them, applying a little pressure downward, insuring the head is on straight and even all the way around, then leave to set.

The motor for the eye peace had its own circuit board as I mentioned earlier. To house this, I made a small cardboard compartment and glued it to the top base of the skirt section, close to the weapons panel and away from the center axle. 2 wires came from the p/c board that attached to the motor. The motor will sit above the chest section. Now that most of the panels are fitted and glue is set, carefully cover them with duct tape making sure you cover and seal the all the joins of the panels. This also adds to stability and firms up the skirts somewhat. There is enough room to put your hand in to the body because of the missing panels so you can stabilize the cardboard and smooth out any air bubbles when applying the tape.As with the base plate, you could use some paper to make a template, copy it over to the cardboard then cut out using a straight edge to guide for a nice clean cut. Continue to fix the rest of the struts starting with front middle one. Now the trial and error bit comes in here. You want the top plate to be as level as possible, so here you can alter the size of the strut using and taping up the tabs which will also help to center the top plate and keep the tube axle straight when it rotates. Finish off fitting the last 2 struts and when the glue is dry, simply use a pair of scissors to trim off any excess cardboard from the strut tabs so everything is flush with the top plate. To help make it clearer, the measurements can also be seen on the in-photo information. When the sides are marked out and your happy that both left and right sides look equal,, cut out the template.

One thing I forgot to mention, I wanted to insert a small switch in between the last 2 outer layers to switch the under chassis lighting on and off. I did this by cutting a small hole though all 3 layers before fitting to the base. This was done at the rear of the Dalek, just below the maintenance panel. The switch was glued between the 2nd and 3rd layer keeping the switch flush with the outer layer.

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I needed to make a wheel for the pulley system to work the eye stalk. The motor had a small white cog fixed to the motor drive shaft. Using a flat top lid from another deodorant can, I cut around the sides of the lid and cut out the flat top part of the lid. I then punctured a small hole through the center and another near the outside of the wheel, and with a craft knife carefully cut out some small teeth in the center hole to fit around the motor cog. Then i squeezed the lid on to the cog and applied a small drop of super glue. Many years ago, the Daleks sent out thousands of egg-shaped Progenitors containing the genetic coding of the race, so that new Daleks could be created whenever necessary… 76 24 Jul 2010 Infrared Controlled Dalek Ironside